Bowling Green Lane
Located in the heart of Clerkenwell, this historic neighbourhood area is an uncannily green corner of central London, featuring the Spa Fields Park to the north and St. James’ Church Garden to the south. Housing the London Metropolitan archives, as well as the headquarters of a number of non-profit organisations such as 38 Degrees, The Science Council and The Physiological Society, this neighbourhood highlights the important role that social enterprises perform within the City. A cluster of independent bakeries, restaurants, bars and cafes populates the northern edge of this neighbourhood, situated along the narrow street of Exmouth Market. What makes this unique is that almost every one of these establishments offers outdoor covered seating, creating a sidewalk café ambiance. The open green spaces contrasted with the narrow and densely-packed streets of this area create a cosy, european atmosphere that can make you forget you are in the centre of London.
Named after the Exmouth Arms Pub situated in the centre of the street, Exmouth Market has traded since the late 19th century. After becoming run-down in the 1990s, the local council sought to regenerate the market and restore the area to the bustling hub it once was. In 2006, the Exmouth Market Traders Association reinstated the area as a street market, where traders come to set up stalls during the weekdays selling jewellery, gifts, produce, and other local wares. Situated just below the market is the church of Our Most Holy Redeemer, which was built in 1887 and is the only Italian basilica-style church in London.
This area was frequented by Charles Dickens, who wrote in great detail about the impoverishment and crime that was rife during the 19th century. Most famously his novel ‘Oliver Twist’ was based upon scenes he witnessed here, and takes place amongst the Victorian buildings that still survive to this day. This area of London used to be notorious, with many of the pubs housing grisly events such as bear-baiting and dog fighting in their basements. Lenin and Stalin also once met in The Crown Tavern in this neighbourhood area in 1905!
The downsides of this area are that it is not at all a cheap area to live or work, and prices are only expected to increase now the Elizabeth has opened at nearby Farringdon. However, residents stated that it had “A good community feel, particularly around Exmouth Market and Brill café, which is always full of locals.”
Islington Council continues to support the growth and development of Exmouth Market, now an integral part of the area’s culture and the foundation of many resident’s livelihoods. It is hoped that this will enable the local market community to persist through the opening of the Elizabeth Line and the economic opportunities it will bring with it. While the area is already densely built, new developments are not uncommon. The recently completed conversion of the Buckley Building factory into office space is a typical example of a local scheme which respects the history of the area.