Muswell Hill & Highgate Wood
Right in the heart of the affluent, family-oriented village of Muswell Hill, the area has a unique and relaxed neighbourhood feel. As a conservation area (therefore having avoided new builds) the area feels as though it is from another era, with exclusively Edwardian and Victorian terraces lining the open and leafy suburban streets. While there is little connectivity transport wise, given that the nearest tube stops, Bound’s Green and Highgate, are about a 20 minute walk away, the community has developed a degree of self-sustainability through its abundance of independent shops and boutiques. There are still the convenient chains along Muswell Hill Broadway, but their embeddedness within the period architecture means they don’t impose themselves on the quaint high street as in other locales. The area’s distance from the centre of town and its proximity to large green spaces such as Alexandra Palace and Highgate Wood make this place the perfect village retreat for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of central London whilst remaining within commuting distance.
The ‘mossy well’ that gave the settlement of Muswell Hill its name reputedly cured Malcolm IV of Scotland of ill health sometime in the 12th century after the land was given to the nuns of St Mary Clerkenwell in 1152 by the Bishop of London. The area became farmland but the well remained a site of pilgrimage until Henry VI’s dissolution of the monasteries in 1539. The settlement was connected to London by a poor road, but attracted many wealthy folk because of its reputation as a rural idyll within close proximity to the city, with one commentator stating that nowhere within 100 miles of London had such magnificent views, and these views and the clean air brought with it many grand villas. Development began slowly because of Muswell Hill’s isolation from the rest of London, when the first wave of suburbanisation missed the area, but the building of the Eastern, Southern and Western Roads started to sew interest with land developers. The large estates and their land were sold to just two developers at the end of the 19th century, who transformed what was agrarian land into the quaint Edwardian village we know Muswell Hill to be today.
Music fans may already know that Muswell Hill has been a hotbed of musical talent over the years and this area is no exception. Vivian Stanshall (1943-1995) lived at 21 Hillfield Park from 1990 until his untimely death in 1995 when an electrical fire broke out in his flat. Stanshall was best known for his work with the Bonzo Dog Doo-Dah Band and for his narration of Mike Oldfield’s Tubular Bells.
Others may also know that the notorious Muswell Hill Murderer, Dennis Nilsen, lived at 23 Cranley Gardens where he was responsible for the murders of numerous young men between 1978 and 1983. He was arrested at the house following a complaint about blocked drains which were found to contain human remains.
Because of the area’s conservation status and relative isolation from the centre of London, many of Muswell Hill’s shops have been preserved. W Martyn at 135 Muswell Hill Broadway is one such example, which has been trading as a grocery store nonstop since 1897, and has been passed down through the hands of the Martyn family for numerous generations. Its current shop front is from the 1930s and was designated a listed building in 2009. The shop still contains many of its original fixtures and appliances, and it was even mentioned in Pevsner’s 1998 architectural bible: The Buildings of England.
Another symptom of the area’s independence from the urban developments that continue to eradicate London’s rich architectural history, is the grade II* listed Everyman Cinema on Muswell Hill Road. Designed by the maestro of Art Deco cinema architecture, George Coles in 1935-6 it was one of the original Odeon cinemas and still contains much of the original interior and exterior architecture.
Many who live in Muswell Hill complain about its lack of transport links given that there are only a couple of buses which pass through the area and few train links anywhere near. However, when speaking to one local resident, he said, “I get the best view in town, why would I want to live anywhere else?” This isolation has also meant that many of the village’s original architecture and community feel has been retained.
A key part of the area’s Jewish community is, of course, the Muswell Hill Synagogue, which is expanding in the form of the Shul Building. Construction started on the new facility in 2021 which will not only involve improvements to many of the Synagogue’s internal and external amenities but will also help it improve its ability to pursue community-based schemes. While it is not yet confirmed, the Muswell Hill Metro Group are also campaigning tirelessly to improve transport links to the area by reopening the line between Finsbury Park and Muswell Hill. The line was laid before the Second World War, but the conflict meant that electrification was never completed and Muswell Hill has been lacking transport services ever since. The group believes that if the proposal is allowed to go ahead it will significantly reduce traffic congestion as well as platform congestion at nearby stations.