Largely as a result of starting from a clean slate in the eighties, this neighbourhood is not like the other ‘re-born’ neighbourhoods of the East End. If Stratford is the new kid on the block, with its impressive skyline in-the-making, Wapping has been character-building for a few decades now. With quick access to Canary Wharf and within walking distance of the City, estate agents have already sold most of the nineties yellow-brick flats to professionals. The housing stock here is dominated by postwar estates built around picturesque canals, as well as a number of riverside warehouse conversions, giving the area a truly unique flavour. Their abundant history creates a character infused with maritime themes as can be felt by visiting some of the local pubs – the Town of Ramsgate and The Captain Kid, and the Trade Union. Amenities in the area also include the Waitrose on Thomas More Street, and Studio Spaces – an event space and nightclub next to Tobacco Dock and Wapping Gardens on the riverside. The local Hermitage Primary School is also rated ‘good’ by Ofsted.

Wapping has been unique since the early days. It’s intimate connection with maritime affairs has made its pubs and streets a relic of the days of dock workers, pirates, and Dickensian drunkards. This is not to say that the area was wholly a slum – though it had its fair share of east end hooligans – the rum, spices and guns which passed through the areas canals, generated some wealth for the locale. The establishment of the country’s first-ever marine police force in 1798 brought more order to the area, and the pubs became frequented by more affluent types such as the artists James Whistler and J. M. W. Turner. The first half of the 20th century sent the area into decline, with the docks unable to compete as the size of ships increased. This was only compounded during the Seccond World War when the area was totally devastated by German bombing campaigns. The area is also known for the 1986 Battle of Wapping – a picket of newspaper workers who were dismissed from Fleet Street after their offices were relocated to this area. Undergoing an almost complete rebirth over the past few decades whilst keeping some ancient gems, Wapping is now an eclectic combination of the antiquated and the shiny, the local and the global.

An account of the docks would be incomplete without a nod to the area’s most esteemed profession – piracy. One such historical figure, Walter Kennedy, started out as a petty criminal roaming the streets of Wapping at the turn of the 18th century. Following the death of his father, his apprenticeship as an anchor smith abruptly halted, and Kennedy tried himself in the legitimate career path of the navy, fighting in the War of Spanish Succession. But here the romanticised lure of piracy was only more pronounced, and during the journey to Havana the sailors mutinied and assumed their new lawless role, despite being sent to suppress piracy. Kennedy became captain of the ship, despite having only very poor navigation skills. After accidentally landing in Scotland, Kennedy parted from his crew and returned to the capital to run a brothel. He died in 1721 when he ended up at Wapping’s no longer extant Execution Dock, where was hanged in accord with the fate of a true pirate.

For some, the locale might not stimulate the greatest excitement by way of culture and arts when compared to other parts of east London. In this sense Wapping can be seen as a victim of its previous successes, as successful redevelopment in the previous century means today’s residences are generally purchased by professionals and families. For some this has taken its toll on local cultural amenities.

Looking forward, St George’s luxury apartment complex to the north of the docks is finally reaching the final stages of its development. With a secondary school included, and over half of the construction constituting public open space, this is not only architectural eye candy, and should be an asset to the community. However, in total only 486 of the new 1,800 homes are classed as affordable.